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Odi et amo: this is what comes to mind when I think of what to see on Lake Como. This lake, in fact, gives many pearls, but at the same time it suffers from the big problem of overtourism. I will deal with this issue several times during this article, especially in the section on boating on the lake.
On the other hand, somehow it is possible to avoid the long lines. This post, in fact, aims to describe the beauty of Lake Como without forgetting the various sports activities that make a visit to this lake wonderful.
What to see in Como
Lake Como consists of three parts. Its shape is an inverted Y. In the southern parts are the provincial capitals of Como and Lecco, while in the northern part of Lake Como is the town of Sorico, at the foot of Valtellina and Valcamonica.
Como is definitely worth a visit. A provincial capital with a population of 80,000, Como boasts Roman origins. The two must-see monuments (which can be visited for free) are the Romanesque Basilica of San Fedele and the late Gothic Duomo.
Along the lake, you can also find the Tempio Voltiano (with a museum dedicated to chemist Alessandro Volta from Como) and Villa Olmo.
Como, in my opinion, deserves a half-day visit: the center is enriched by beautiful squares and streets, such as Piazza San Fedele, Piazza Volta and Via Indipendenza.
Best of Lake Como: Brunate
From Como, near the Trenord Como Lago station, one can take the funicular to Brunate, at an elevation of 715 meters. The funicular, which has a history of 130 years, departs every 15-30 minutes (this is the website, no reservation needed) and in five minutes takes you from Como to Brunate.
Just take a few steps from the funicular exit and you will have a splendid view of Como and the southwest part of Lake Como. In the next map I point you to the exact place.
Brunate is also home to my favorite restaurant on Lake Como: the Falchetto (which is also a hotel) boasts excellent food and a magnificent view of the lake. In this case, I recommend that you make reservations in advance !
Before returning to the lake, I leave you with a map of my favorite places in Lake Como.
Map of what to see on Lake Como
Here you can find a map of what to see and do on Lake Como. The post will continue at high altitude, with a description of a magnificent lake trek.
What to see on Lake Como: Larian Triangle Ridge
From Brunate begins one of the most beautiful treks I have ever done: the Larian Triangle Ridge. This trail connects Brunate to Bellagio: it is 35 kilometers, not technically difficult but tiring (here you can find the in-depth).
The dorsal name of the Larian triangle takes its name from the typical pre-Alpine shape of the lake (reminiscent of a human back, and as mentioned before a reverse Y, thus a triangle) and from Lario, the ancient name for Lake Como.
As you walk along the Larian Triangle ridge, you can see the voltiano lighthouse (which is 30 minutes from the Brunate funicular), Mounts Boletto and Bolettone, and various mountain huts. The views are nothing short of sensational: in my opinion, the Larian Triangle ridge is the best way to appreciate Lake Como, of course if you are sporty! Near the ridge of the Larian triangle there is also the Mount San Primo: from here you can also admire the sublime Monte Rosa!
Best of Lake Como: sailing on the lake and the villas
It’s time to return to the lake. Sailing on Lake Como perfectly encapsulates my ‘hate and love’ for this lake. The queues at the landing stages are often very long: it is common to wait more than an hour, partly because the navigation service is, in my opinion, poor. There are few connections: suffice it to say that the first boat from Como to Bellagio leaves only at 9:15 a.m. (here the timetables). In addition, groups often have priority: it is normal to be overtaken by groups of fifty people, which could fill the boat and force the individual tourist to wait for the next boat.
That said, the experience of sailing on the lake is magnificent. On the stretch from Como to Bellagio, one can appreciate Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, Clooney’s Villa Oleandra in Laglio, the beautiful Nesso (which I will elaborate on shortly), Comacina Island (the only island on the lake, with a medieval monastery), the villas Balbiano and Balbianello (made famous for 007 and Star Wars movies) in Lenno, and Villa Carlotta (famous for its gardens) in Tremezzo.
In short, the boat tour is spectacular: the option of a private boat, like this one, might be the best option for a group of people. From the boat, you can also appreciate the Sacro Monte of Ossuccio, the only Unesco site on Lake Como.
Best of Lake Como: Nesso
Among the various places mentioned, in my opinion Nesso stands out for its beauty. This small village of a thousand inhabitants is famous for its gorge. It is possible to get to Nesso by boat or by car: the only problem is that the state road is higher than the orrido (you have to calculate 20 minutes of stairs downhill and 30 minutes uphill).
The Nesso gorge boasts a beautiful waterfall, which springs from the small streams Nosรฉe and Tuf. A small bridge makes Nesso a very romantic place: in particular, Nesso is at its best in autumn, with the foliage.
What to see on Lake Como: Bellagio
Continuing northward, Bellagio is certainly the best-known town on Lake Como. Its geographical location, indeed, is spectacular. Punta Spartivento, in particular, is the point where the three branches of Lake Como meet.
In Bellagio it is also possible to appreciate the beautiful Romanesque-style basilica of San Giacomo and small alleys, which connect the Bellagio pier with the highest part of the town: the most beautiful is Salita Serbelloni, but all of them boast interesting and colorful little stores, especially loved by influencers.
In Bellagio itself there are two villas: Villa Serbelloni (unfortunately there are only two daily visits) and Villa Melzi, which, however, is not located in the center (you have to calculate about an hour’s walk).
In Bellagio I recommend the Seta restaurant and the Gambrinus brewery. From Como to Bellagio takes about 2 and a quarter hours with the regular public boat, which becomes an hour with the rapid service (round trip from Como to Bellagio costs about 20 euros, to which you have to add 14 euros for the rapid).
What to see on Lake Como: Varenna
From Bellagio you can reach Varenna by an additional boat: it takes about 45 minutes. Varenna, like Bellagio, also suffers from overtourism: imagine a small town, with a couple of narrow streets, full of groups of tourists and you can easily understand the problem with these places.
Varenna is, however, a real gem. The Lovers’ Walk allows you to admire Lake Como, with Bellagio in the middle. In Varenna there is the beautiful church of San Giorgio, which boasts a Gothic-style interior, and Villa Monastero, where you can admire a beautiful botanical garden and a fine view of Lake Como.
From Varenna, it is a twenty-minute walk to the medieval Vezio Castle.
Varenna is connected to Lecco and Milan by the railway line: you can also continue northward, namely Tirano (from where you can take the Bernina red train or continue to Bormio).
What to see on Lake Como: Wayfarer’s Trail
Varenna is also home to another beautiful trek. The Sentiero del Viandante, in fact, is the pearl of the Lecco part of Lake Como. In four stages it is possible to walk from Abbadia Lariana (just five kilometers from Lecco) to Colico.
I went through all four stages and I leave here the various information. Let me just tell you that I particularly loved the second stage, which is the one connecting Lierna to Vernazza.
Another trek worth mentioning is that of the path of expressions: here you can find the in-depth.
The four stages of the Wayfarer’s Trail are easily reached by train. A car is practically necessary to get to the starting point of the Expressions Trail in Schignano: both trails do not present any particular technical difficulties, although the Wayfarer’s Trail is more strenuous (any of the four stages is more tiring than the Expressions Trail).
What to do on Lake Como: bike tours
Lake Como is surrounded by mountains: the highest are Legnone (2610 meters) and Grignone (2410 meters). These, with the Grignetta, are classic targets for local and non-local trekkers.
Lake Como is not only loved by trekkers, but also by cyclists. I strongly advise against cycling along Lake Como, but rather seek alternative routes. From Bellagio a climb leads up to Ghisallo, where there is the Madonna del Ghisallo (dedicated precisely to cyclists) and the Ghisallo Museum, dedicated to the history of cycling: these are the roads used by the Giro di Lombardia. Just before Ghisallo there is a spectacular viewpoint over the Lecco branch of Lake Como.
Among the climbs that I highly recommend (find an in-depth discussion here) the one leading from Argegno to Rifugio Venini (via Val d’Intelvi), Cornizzolo and Bisbino stand out. The climb to Venini is my favorite, without a doubt! Deserving, of course, a mention is the Colma di Sormano: the 1.7 kilometers at 15.5 percent average I will remember forever!
ONE OR TWO-DAY ITINERARY ON LAKE COMO
Someday.. Personally I would devote a couple of hours to Como, then take the tour by private boat. At sunset time I would ride the funicular up to Brunate and have dinner at Falchetto.
Two days. Armed with patience, I would try to do a hop on-hop off with the public boat: that way it is possible to visit Nesso, Bellagio, and, unlikely, even Vernazza.
Sports option. First day dedicated to the ridge of the Larian triangle. Second day biking from Bellagio to Ghisallo and the Colma di Sormano. I definitely vote for the sport option!
IN ADDITION TO WHAT TO SEE ON LAKE COMO, YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN …
Angera, a jewel on Lake Maggiore!
Lake Orta, a Piedmontese wonder!
INFORMATION ON WHAT TO SEE ON LAKE COMO
- The best places to make a base for visiting Lake Como are Como, Lecco and Varenna. All three of these places are connected to Milan by Trenord service. From Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni takes only 40 minutes: this is enough to explain that the car is of little use, but I elaborate on the reasons later.
- Among the three places I perhaps choose Como. In Como I recommend good beer at Gozzoviglio and Birrivico, where there is also good food. Good pizzas at Donnarumma and Pizzium. In Como I have always slept at the Como BB City Center: again it is ‘hate and love’ in that it is comfortable but lacks in the number of staff.
- My favorite places to eat on Lake Como are Falchetto in Brunate, then Seta in Bellagio.
- The best season to visit Lake Como is from early October to early March, which is when the summer tourist siege ends. Bellagio and Varenna become unlivable (also because of the sultry heat) in July and August. In these months I recommend changing itinerary and visiting the villages of Tremezzo and Menaggio: in this way, perhaps, you can escape the tourist siege.
- My favorite way to visit Lake Como is by doing sports. The panoramic views one has while cycling or hiking are the real postcard of Lake Como.
- The automobile is practically useless on Lake Como, especially in the summer season. Traffic and the chronic lack of parking spaces make the car an inconvenient means of transportation. From the beginning of October to the beginning of March, however, it is possible to drive with less stress and find parking, even in Nesso, where in summer it is virtually impossible to find space. The car, however, becomes practically necessary to reach Ghisallo and the starting point of the Expression Trail.
- The private boat is, in my opinion, the only way to sail on Lake Como during the summer season, especially on weekends. To use the public boat, one must get in line at least an hour before the boat departs: strong is the risk of being left in the harbor, as the boat could easily fill up completely.
- Do I recommend Lake Como? Yes, but following the right precautions. In case of overtourism, the trip to Lake Como would become insulting and annoying. However, I recommend devoting at least a couple of days to visiting Lake Como!
