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What to see in Amalfi: a day of history and nature

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What to see in Amalfi in one day? This question deserves an introductory answer. In fact, Amalfi is definitely the most important historic center on the Amalfi Coast. Some, however, prefer Positano to Amalfi: there is a sort of rivalry between the two towns, as many tourists prefer the colors and shopping of Positano over the history of Amalfi.

In this post I describe what to see in Amalfi, devoting a few paragraphs to areas that are not exactly central. This way you have a chance to get to know a slightly less touristy Amalfi!

 

Amalfi tour base

Amalfi is an excellent base for visiting other beauties of the Amalfi Coast.

In fact, from Amalfi it is possible to reach Capri (I suggest this tour), Pompeii and Vesuvius (this is the suitable tour), Ravello ( easily reached in 30 minutes by Sita bus ), Positano and Sorrento ( by sea, booking directly on the website of Travelmar).

There is also the possibility of taking a free tour that allows you to learn about the beauty of Amalfi. From Amalfi it is also possible to reach, again by Sita bus, Bomerano. From this small hamlet of Agerola begins the Path of the Gods, which I describe in detail here..

 

What to see in Amalfi: the Duomo

Amalfi is most famous for its Cathedral, the construction of which dates back to 988. The interior of Amalfi Cathedral is characterized by a Baroque style. The Duomo, however, is especially famous for its crypt and Paradise Cloister. The crypt of Amalfi Cathedral has inside it the tomb of St. Andrew, the patron saint of Amalfi, which were stolen from Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade. The crypt was built in 1203 but has been frescoed since the 16th century.

The Cloister of Paradise was built in the 13th century. It was abandoned in the 18th century and later restored in the early 20th century, when palm trees were introduced.

Admission to Amalfi Cathedral costs four euros: definitely well spent! The visit to Amalfi Cathedral takes about 45 minutes. In fact, it is easy to be dazzled by the beauty of the Duomo. You also have to consider that you have to climb a good 50 steps from the Piazza del Duomo!

 

The beach of Amalfi

Amalfi Cathedral is one minute away from the Amalfi beach. The sea at Amalfi is beautiful, but the beach is overcrowded from late April to late October. Much of Amalfi’s beach has private establishments: the public beach is reduced to a minimal space. On the other hand, umbrella and two deck chairs cost about 30 euros per day: given the location, this is not a high expense!

After leaving the beach, I recommend walking for about 4 minutes toward Atrani, following the main road. This way you can take beautiful photographs of the Amalfi beach and the old town.

 

What to see in Amalfi: the historic center

Piazza del Duomo is one of the most crowded places in Amalfi. The square, featuring a fountain dedicated to St. Andrew, would be worth a visit, but it is often far too crowded.

From Piazza del Duomo starts the central street of Amalfi, which is first called Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi and then Via Pietro Capuano. The street, in itself, is very characteristic, being full of colors, small stores and bars where one can eat and drink something. Unfortunately, however, the street is definitely crowded! Worth a visit is the fountain de cape e ciucci, named after the two heads that adorn the fountain and the donkeys that used to drink here. A typical nativity scene has been set up in this fountain since 1974.

In the historic center of Amalfi I really appreciate Piazza dei Dogi. This small square is small, quaint and much less crowded than the very nearby Piazza del Duomo.

 

What to see in Amalfi: the Arsenal

The Amalfi Arsenal is a museum not to be missed! It is located near Porta Marina, the ancient entrance to Amalfi that connected the port to the city center. A visit to the Amalfi Arsenal costs three euros, and allows you to see the symbolic monument of Amalfi’s seafaring period. The Arsenal is none other than the city’s ancient shipyard: historical sources tell us that it has been in operation since the 11th century. A visit to the Museum-Arsenal allows visitors to admire ancient scrolls, sunken treasures, a historic galleon, Amalfi coins, and, finally, compasses.

There is no shortage of a splendid model representing Amalfi in the Middle Ages. At that time Amalfi was considered the most prosperous city in Campania, far more powerful than Naples!

 

What to see in Amalfi: the Paper Museum

The Paper Museum is the other must-see museum in Amalfi! It is located on Via delle Cartiere: it is about a ten-minute walk from the Cathedral and can be reached by following the aforementioned Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi and Via Pietro Capuano. There are two ways to visit the Amalfi Paper Museum. The first costs 4.50 euros and allows you to visit the museum on your own. For 7 euros, on the other hand, there is a guided tour of the paper mill: the guide is very interesting and lasts only half an hour.

With a tour of the Paper Museum, it is possible to visit an ancient paper mill dating back to the 13th century. The guided tour allows visitors to see old machinery in operation, such as the ancient hammers that shredded linen rags.

The Paper Museum, with its ancient machinery and old canal system, is definitely worth a visit. I recommend the guide as you can observe the machinery in operation and because you can learn more about the history of paper, which arrived in Amalfi in the 12th century.

 

What to see in Amalfi: the Valley of the Mills

From the Paper Museum an uphill path leads first to the excellent Fore Porta refreshment house (about 25 minutes) and later to the Valley of the Mills (about 40 minutes).

The Valle dei Mulini, besides being famous for its beautiful small waterfalls, is home to some paper mills dating back to the 13th century. I generally reach Valle dei Mulini from Valle delle Ferriere, one of the most beautiful treks on the Amalfi Coast. For those who like to walk, I highly recommend walking about 40 minutes from the Paper Museum to the old paper mills.

The walk from the center of Amalfi to the Valley of the Mills is characterized in the beginning by a long flight of steps, which leads up to the Fore Porta refreshment house. From here starts a path that in about 15 minutes reaches the old paper mills. This path later connects with the Valle delle Ferriere, one of the most beautiful hiking trails on the Amalfi Coast..

The walk in the Valley of the Mills allows you to escape from the hustle and bustle of the old town. In addition, you can admire beautiful views of Amalfi and lots of lemon plantations. The ancient paper mills, then, reminded me of some of the Angkor Wat temple: nature is taking back the space stolen by man!

 

Walking from Amalfi to Atrani

Walking is one of the most beautiful things to do in Amalfi. A beautiful path connects Amalfi with nearby Atrani, without walking along the busy state road. The path, about twenty minutes long, begins near Fior di Pizza, at the southern end of Amalfi beach.

The route from Amalfi to Atrani is little known and provides characteristic views of the most famous town on the coast and, later, a splendid panorama of Atrani. I do not recommend doing this walk during the hottest hours of summer as there are stairs to negotiate and because much of the route is sunny. Here you can see a short video of Amalfi, while here another short video of Atrani.

 

Map of what to see in Amalfi

Before I leave you with useful information on what to see in Amalfi, here I leave you with a map of what to see in Amalfi in one day…better in two!

IN ADDITION TO WHAT TO SEE IN AMALFI YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN ….

Excursion to Pompeii!

Free tour of Naples!

A week between Naples and the Amalfi Coast!

The beautiful Venice!

Capri!

Unusual Rome!

 

USEFUL INFORMATION ON WHAT TO SEE IN AMALFI

 

  • I personally have no doubt. Amalfi is, in my opinion, much more interesting and intriguing than Positano. Amalfi has only one weakness: overtourism makes it tiring to visit this town that has only 4,000 inhabitants.

 

  • Amalfi’s history is enviable. In the ninth century, in fact, Amalfi became the first Maritime Republic: Genoa, Pisa and Venice followed. Amalfi’s golden age lasted about three centuries: a lost maritime battle with Pisa and a tidal wave caused the decline of Amalfi, which up to that time was more important than Naples.

 

  • How to get to Amalfi? I strongly advise against using a car, as the Amalfi coast is often decidedly busy. The most convenient way is to use the maritime service between Salerno and Amalfi (the aforementioned Travelmar takes twenty minutes to cover the route, which by car would be over an hour long), or use the Sita bus from Naples.

 

  • Where to eat in Amalfi? I really appreciate the Barracca restaurant, located in the peaceful Piazza dei Dogi. Fore Porta, before Valle dei Mulini, is another great place to eat and drink a typical lemonade.

 

  • Where to drink in Amalfi? Again, I have no doubt. Melphi’s brewery wins hands down! It is located just a minute away from the Paper Museum. Here there is an opportunity to do a tasting of the brewery, which generally has three or four beers on tap. I really appreciate Melphi’s labels, which are reminiscent of the facade of Amalfi Cathedral.

 

  • I do not recommend a specific place to sleep in Amalfi as I have never slept in the city center. On the other hand, I can recommend theSant’Alfonso agriturismo in Furore, which I use as a base when I work as a tour guide on the Amalfi Coast: it is truly splendid! Near Sant’Alfonso there is BB Marelle, recommended!

 

  • What to see in Amalfi in one day? A visit to the Cathedral, the Paper Museum and the Arsenal entirely fill a day in Amalfi. With two days you have time to relax, walk to the Valley of the Mills.

 

  • In my opinion, the best time to visit Amalfi is off-season. The rampant tourism makes it less pleasant to visit. October is, in my opinion, an excellent month to visit Amalfi: the days are not cold and the sea temperature is still pleasant. March and April are also good months to visit Amalfi: the sea water, however, is colder.

 

  • Amalfi celebrates its patron saint Andrew twice a year. Although the November 30 feast is better known, June 27 each year is famous in Amalfi for the saint’s run. In fact, a statue of St. Andrew is carried by about ten worshippers, who run down the steps of the Duomo: not an easy feat, since it is more than fifty steps!

 

  • This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Amalfi.

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