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This post describes a trip to Iceland in winter. I have visited Iceland four times, two of which were in the cold season.

The travel itinerary to Iceland in winter is totally different from that in summer. On the two winter trips I visited approximately the same things: in both cases I did not find excellent weather! This itinerary therefore is a sort of best of between the two trips: the first made with 13 other friends, the second as tour leader.

The first important piece of information is that to see the Northern Lights the proper time is from late August to early April. I have only seen the aurora in Reykjavik: the first time thanks to a Civitatis day tour (very convenient, as you go by bus away from the city lights), the second time I drove ten minutes away, finding a place with little light pollution.

Certainly a car could be very useful: I recommend DiscoverCars!

Day 1 trip to Iceland in winter : Snaefellsness

The trip to Iceland begins with a visit to the Snaefellsness Peninsula. This beautiful peninsula is about two and a half hours north of Keflavik airport (winter times can also double due to ice on the roads).

Two small towns, full of colorful houses, can be visited on this peninsula: Stykkisholmur and Grundarfjordur.

If the roads are clear, it is possible to go on the total tour of the peninsula, which allows one to see the viewpoints of Ytri Tunga and Arnastapi, as well as the black church of Budakirkja and the Saxholl crater: due to bad weather, this part of the tour was not feasible as the road was impassable. We therefore settled for Stykkisholmur and Grundarfjordur and, most importantly, Kirkjufell!

This 463-meter-high mountain is one of the most scenic in all of Iceland. The name is reminiscent of its shape, namely the steeple of a church: this shape is due to glacial erosion. One of the most beautiful photo points allows a view of Kirkjufell with a small waterfall, Kirkjufellsfoss.

We slept in the Kirkjufell Guesthouse, excellent!

Starting from Reykjavik, you can visit Snaefellsness by participating in a day tour!

Day 2 trip to Iceland in winter : the golden circle

From Snaefellsness one must drive nearly three hours to reach Pingvellir, where the so-called Golden Circle begins. Pingvellir was the seat of Iceland’s first parliament from the 10th to the 15th century. In 930 the first Icelandic parliament was established here, and in 1944, also here, independence from Denmark was declared. This is also an important geological zone as the American and European clods meet. To visit Pingvellir you have to calculate about an hour’s walk: in winter, with a temperature of -17, we chose to visit only the small but characteristic Oxarfoss waterfall.

A further hour’s drive takes you to the beautiful Gullfoss waterfall (it is 32 meters high and consists of a double drop: I prefer it ‘dressed in white,’ that is, in the winter season). A visit to Gullfoss takes about half an hour: there are three viewpoints, in my opinion one more beautiful than the other!

From Gullfoss it is a ten-minute drive to the famous Geyser, the hot water spring that reaches as high as 40 meters (Strokkur is the most famous geyser). You have to wait about five minutes to admire the explosion of hot water-it is a beautiful sight!

A visit to Kelid Crater completes the golden circle. About 45 minutes away from the Geyser, paying 400 KR (just under three euros), you can take a twenty-minute walk to the rim of the crater, which was formed only 6500 years ago. Inside the crater is a lake, which of course I found totally frozen.

We slept at Minni Borgir, a beautiful guesthouse located just a few minutes away from Kelid. You can find an in-depth look at the Golden Circle here!

The Golden Circle can be conveniently visited on a day trip from Reykjavik.

Day 3 Iceland trip in winter: towards Vik

Starting from Minni Borgir, it takes about an hour and a half to reach the first waterfall of the day, Seljandsfoss. This waterfall has a 60-meter drop, and it is possible to follow a path that, with a ten-minute walk, allows you to admire the waterfall from behind. In winter, however, this path is often closed as it is slippery.

Continuing to drive east, in half an hour you reach the Skogafoss waterfall. This waterfall is also 60 meters high, and a full 25 meters wide. Skogafoss really gives the feeling of power! It is possible to climb to the top of the waterfall-I highly recommend crampons! The view from the top is amazing, but you have to be very careful of the ice. A complete visit to Skogafoss takes about an hour.

An additional hour’s drive takes one to Vik. Just before that, however, there are two magnificent spots. Dyrholaey is a promontory from where you can see a magnificent natural arch, while at Reynisfjara you can see the famous basalt columns.

There is a beautiful black beach in Vik: in winter the contrast with the white snow is spectacular! Also, three fantastic stacks can be seen from the black beach.

In Vik we slept well at the Puffin Hotel, and drank excellent Icelandic beer at Smidjan Brigghus.

Again there is a tour starting in Reykjavik that covers almost all of these wonders!

Day 4 – 5 trip to Iceland in winter : Jokulsarlon, and return to Reykjavik

From Vik it is possible to reach the famous Jokulsarlon lagoon in about two and a half hours. This part of Iceland, however, is often characterized by wind and icy roads. When I made my second trip to Iceland in winter, in the days around New Year’s Eve, it took me a good four hours to travel this part of the road-I even risked running off the road several times. This had also happened on the first trip to Iceland in winter, when we literally did a 180-degree rotation.

Once you arrive in Jokulsarlon you can see the famous iceberg-filled lagoon (actually, on my second trip to Iceland in winter I was disappointed as there were few icebergs) and the diamond beach, characterized by ice rocks.

In addition, you can take a tour of the Ice Caves! The three-hour tour pemits you to admire the Vatnajokull ice cave: the blue color leaves you speechless! The tour is divided as follows: half-hour drive by jeep, half-hour walk to enter the caves, one hour visit to the caves, return to Jokulsarlon Lagoon.

I highly recommend sleeping near Jokulsarlon to avoid too many hours of driving. This way you can also see the beautiful Skaftafell glacier and the Fjadrargljufur canyon!

From Jokulsarlon one must count at least five hours to reach Reykjavik. Where to sleep in Reykjavik? I recommend Thingholt Apartments e Oddson.

Day 6 trip to Iceland in winter : Reykjavik and the Blue Lagoon

Reykjavik is definitely worth a morning of sightseeing. The modern Hallgrismkirja church, Rainbow Street (Skolavordustigur), Laugavegur (the shopping street), and Sun Voyager, a sculpture representing a boat (also beautiful is the view of the fjord) are definitely worth a mention.

In Reykjavik I highly recommend eating at Sea Baron (famous for its lobster soup and skewers of local fish, such as cod) and Svarta Kaffid (soup with bread, very good!).

On the way back to Keflavik airport you can stop at the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most famous hot springs. These hot springs are conveniently located near the airport and are a great place to relax before departing.

YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN ….

Iceland in the summer!

The Laugavegur trek!

The Faroe Islands!

BUDGET FOR A TRIP TO ICELAND:

Iceland is one of the most expensive countries in the world, although it is not at the level of Norway. The price rises because of ‘the fault’ of the tours, which are often very expensive. The Ice Caves, for example, cost almost 150 euros.

PLACES NOT TO MISS IN ICELAND

On this trip to Iceland my podium is: Dyrholaey, Gullfoss, Skogafoss.

Travel to Iceland: When & how much

This is the winter tour of Iceland. Seeing Iceland ‘dressed in white’ because of the snow is exciting, but trekking in the summer time is equally beautiful. There are definitely fewer activities in the winter time than in the summer.

I recommend devoting at least five days, as road closures can complicate travel.

In winter, temperatures are not as low as one might think (it is difficult for them to fall below -10 degrees): the problem is snow and wind. In the days straddling New Year’s Eve 2023, temperatures reached a low of -17, making the roads very dangerous.

INFORMATION ABOUT A TRIP TO ICELAND: WINTER TIPS

• Iceland in winter leaves a feeling of the power of nature, with a mix of black and white colors due to its volcanoes and snow. In case of bad weather I recommend avoiding Snaefellsness and Jokulsarlon, as there is a high risk of being stranded in those areas, as they are more prone to bad weather.

• To combat the cold you need to bring thermal long-sleeve sweaters, windbreaker, fleece, winter pants and shoes suitable for snow.

 

• You have to be so careful when driving: the 180° because of snow could cost us so much, luckily there was no one beside us. In winter, a 4×4 is also essential along the Ring Road, Iceland’s main road.

 

• Which season should you choose to visit Iceland? Summer and winter travel in Iceland are totally different. Although the average temperatures are not very different, the type of travel is completely twisted. In summer Iceland gives many treks, such as Laugavegur , and very long days, which allow you to see many wonders. In winter, on the other hand, it is possible to see this island colored in white: the off-white mix, due to snow and volcanic landscapes, is spectacular. Also, in winter there is a chance to see the Northern Lights (from September to March). So, it’s a tough call!

 

• One key piece of advice: before getting in the car, it is a good idea to consult the latest information on weather and road conditions. In fact, roads may be closed during heavy snowfall. Icy roads can be costly: if you are afraid of driving on ice, I recommend participating in the tours mentioned above.

INFORMATION ABOUT A TRIP TO ICELAND: ACCOMMODATIONS AND RESTAURANTS

• As for the ‘Sleeping in Iceland’ chapter, in addition to those reported, I also recommend Skaftafell Hotel and Gullfoss Hotel. Keflavik can be a great place to sleep in case of inconvenient flights. I recommend Tjarnar Hotel and Blue Viking, while for eating and drinking I recommend Library and Cafe Petite.

• The Sea Baron in Reykjavik has been a regular stop on all my four Icelandic trips-it is my favorite place to eat in Iceland.

• For drinking in Reykjavik I recommend Olsmidjan bar (probably the place where we had the cheapest beers). There is also a nice Irish Pub and Brewdog, a well-known Scottish brewery. Reykjavik boasts an enviable nightlife: on weekends, after midnight, the city comes alive until late morning!

• Aurora forecasts are not very reliable. The most famous site is Vedur, but the KP of the aurora (i.e., the value that tells how active it is) varies constantly and is difficult to predict. I highly recommend downloading the Aurora and Auroralabs apps that tell the actual and predicted KP value in the next three hours. The same information can be found online, here.