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In September 2016 I went to Iceland for the third time to hike the Laugavegur trek. Gaddo and I decided to go there in the last days before the arrival of winter. The idea of going up there practically at the end of the season may seem quite silly, but this way we had a chance to try to see the Northern Lights, which we had never seen either in Alaska or on our first Icelandic trip.
We arrived at Rome Fiumicino airport and realized that our flight was delayed. In fact, we were supposed to leave at 11:15 p.m. and left at 12:37 p.m., so almost 14 hours late, after sleeping first in the airport and then in a hotel near Fiumicino.
Fortunately, we had the opportunity to change all our reservations and so the trip was safe. As soon as we arrived in Rejkyavik we went to eat (as a classic when I go to Iceland) at Seabaron / Sรฆgreifinn: the menu with lobster soup, a whale tasting and other things is always something extraordinary.
Day 1 Laugavegur trek: Landmannalaugar – Hradntinnusker
At seven o’clock in the morning we left by bus heading for Landmannalaugar, a place we reached after about two and a half hours. As soon as we arrived we relaxed in the natural hot water spa. After the well-deserved relaxation, we purchased the last necessary things, including three beers each for the three nights.
The first day of the Laugavegur trek was simply fantastic! This is also the day with the most challenging elevation gain: in fact, it goes from 500 meters at Landmannalaugar to 1000 meters at Hradntinnusker. On this hike you can see geysers, mountains of various colors, green valleys and at the end you walk on snow: splendid!
Arriving at the shelter, we cooked what would be voted the worst spaghetti aglio e olio in history. We cooked 500 grams of spaghetti, which we could not finish and gave to the owner of the guesthouse, who most likely gave it to some local dog. We were quite frightened by the night cold, but inside the sleeping bag the temperature was really comfortable. The only problem was the frosty walk to the bathroom, located outside the shelter!
The track of the day is available on my Garmin account.
Day 2 Laugavegur trek: Hradntinnusker – รlftavatn
The next day we woke up to a surprise: snow. After a bit of tergiversation we jumped in and started walking under a snowfall, which was decidedly thick at times.
The landscape was decidedly mountainous, and we had to eat our salmon lunch under the snowflakes. Visibility continued to be almost zero, but a pale sun peeped out just in time to appreciate the viewpoint over Lake Alftavatn. Thus, after the fumaroles and snow, we saw a decidedly greener landscape and the lake. When we arrived at the lodge, we cooked our noodles (which were not as disgusting as those from the night before) and drank our beers, which were the envy of all the other trekkers.
The walk was not long, but still we arrived at the finish tired!
Day 3 Laugavegur trek: รlftavatn – Ermstrur
The third day of the Laugavegur began with a stream crossing. We were quite scared, but the icy water was definitely refreshing! As we continued the walk, the landscape became volcanic: we walked across a long plain characterized by typical black lava stones. Occasionally you can find a few small streams and particularly rocky areas. In one of these Gaddo broke his IPhone and all the Viking deities were greeted more or less affectionately at that precise moment.
Near the Ermstrur camp there is a beautiful canyon: it is worth the little detour!
Day 4 Laugavegur trek: Ermstrur – Porsmork.
The last day of Laugavegur began once again in a landscape of black color, due to the great volcanic activity: as we continued walking the black color gave way to lush green. Just before the end of the walk was waiting for us and another river to cross, again in sandals.
We arrived in Porsmork quite exhausted, since the daily distances are not so short and the cold is sometimes quite challenging. All this added to the satisfaction of having completed this wonderful trek!
Arriving in Reykjavik, we had time to shower, have dinner and drink a few beers before joining a tour with the purpose of seeing the Northern Lights.. Initially we saw some colors in the sky, but we had not yet said the fateful โwowโ : thanks to the driver, we finally saw a real aurora and were totally satisfied with our Icelandic trip! See you again, Iceland ๐
IN ADDITION TO THE LAUGAVEGUR TREK MIGHT INTEREST YOU ….
LAUGAVEGUR TREK: ROUTE AND RESERVATIONS
- Laugavegur is a trek of about 55 km with only 2,000 meters of elevation gain-it is not technically difficult.
- It is passable from late June to mid-September: you have to calculate that cold weather can be a key factor even in the middle of summer (as mentioned, we found a heavy snowfall)
- You have to book the huts on the fi.es website . In July and August you have to book well in advance (in September it is easier).
- One must book buses from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar and from Porsmork to Reykjavik.
- Laugavegur has shelters but also tent campsites (obviously at a lower price)
- This is a trek to be done on your own: this means you have to organize yourself with maps (the trail is perfectly marked, however) and with food (it is recommended to bring everything from Reykjavik, although there is a small shop in Landmannalaugar): stoves and pots and pans are provided in all the huts.
LAUGAVEGUR TREK: BACKPACKING AND INFORMATION
- What should one bring to Laugavegur? The backpack should be as light as possible. Generally, for such a trek, even a 40-liter backpack of about 6 to 8 pounds may suffice. I brought sleeping bag, 3 underpants, 2 merino socks, 2 technical T-shirts (โmarathonโ style), 2 long-sleeved jerseys (preferably merino wool, it keeps the heat better), high mountain boots, a short shorts, a high mountain pants, a sweatshirt, a fleece, a windbreaker jacket, a kway, sandals gloves, sunglasses, hat and neck warmer, small towel (especially for drying feet after crossing streams).
- We brought what we needed to eat for three days: the menu was very simple, namely bread and salmon for lunch and spaghetti aglio e olio for dinner. Water is drinkable in all the huts. Essential kways and sandals: the former because the weather in these parts can be terrible and the latter because you have to cross two streams.
- There are always bathrooms and showers (these for a fee, and always outside the hut)
- As you could see, this trek is not difficult either technically or in terms of elevation. On the other hand, it can become quite hostile due to weather conditions. Still, it is a wonderful trek, and I recommend it to anyone who wants to disconnect for four days (there is also an option to go up to six days of trekking, for the more adventurous!).
- In Rejkyavik I slept very well in Hlemmur Square and in Oddsson
- The Sea Baron is my favorite place to eat in Iceland.
- For drinking in Reykjavik I recommend Olsmidjan bar and also Svarta kaffiรฐ, also famous for soups in bread.
