Available in :
A bike ride in the Balkans had long been on my bucket list. It all stemmed from a classic ‘article you might be interested in’. And yes, I was interested, all right! Thanks to that article, in fact, I discovered the world of the TransDinarica (here is the official website).. What does TransDinarica consist of? Nothing more than the union of various routes in the Balkans: it seems little, but the site promotes itineraries in the Balkan countries, providing lots of advice to cycle travelers.
Although the idea of riding the entire TransDinarica was tempting, I decided to create my own bike tour of the Balkans. The folks at TransDinarica gave me various tips and, in the end, a totally non-trivial, 1398-kilometer-long itinerary in seven states came out.
Here you can find the whole itinerary, with all the GPX tracks.: it is 1398 kilometers long, with a positive elevation gain of almost 20,000 meters. In this post you will find information about each stage and, later, my impressions : I already tell you that they are definitely positive !
Here, finally, you will find a VIDEO with the story of the trip!
Bikes in the Balkans, the rental
I rented my bike at Biking Croatia in Dubrovnik. The guys gave me a beautiful Cannondale Gravel: an excellent bike! As happened in other cases (in the Carretera Austral in Chile, in the tour ofNorthern Argentina and in the two tours in Patagonia) the idea of renting a bike appeals to me. This way, in fact, I avoid the thought of packing the bike, I help the local economy and, in the meantime, I get some first-hand advice from bike stores. In short, Biking Croatia absolutely did not disappoint my expectations and I thank the guys for their help!
You can find all the information about Dubrovnik here!
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 1. Dubrovnik (Croatia) – Kotor (Montenegro)
From Dubrovnik, Croatia, I started traveling south. As soon as I left, I immediately found one thing that would accompany me for the 17 days of biking: uphill! In fact, as soon as I left Dubrovnik I followed an uphill road (very scenic, with beautiful viewpoints) that took me to D8. This road is busy in places: I abandoned it after about ten kilometers, favoring a beautiful provincial road with vineyards and olive groves, following the route of EuroVelo 8.
After 45 kilometers I entered Montenegro. The first Montenegrin town I encountered was Herceg Novi, near the Boka Kotorska Bay: the seaside town is popular with tourists. I continued cycling to Kamenari: here I entered the Bay of Kotor. This is a true wonder! Perasto and the church of Our Lady of the Rocks, located on a small island just in front of Perasto, are, in particular, spectacular!
I thus arrived in Kotor after a stage of 95 kilometers and 830 meters of elevation gain. An excellent first training session!
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 2. Kotor – Virpazar (Montenegro)
After a day of rest in Kotor (more about Kotor!) I set off again, still heading south. Again the start of the stage was tricky: a climb, in fact, took me up to an altitude of 900 meters. What an incredible road, though! Twenty-five hairpin bends allowed me to appreciate the Bay of Kotor in its entirety and the Adriatic Sea-a true spectacle!
A nice descent brought me to Cetinje, the ancient Montenegrin capital. Here a bartender gave me a suggestion on the route to follow. The advice was well received: this way the stretch along the busy M2 was only six kilometers short.
I found many climbs in the second part of the day as well, but the views of Skoder Lake and almost no traffic allowed me to fully appreciate the stretch to Virpazar, reached after 81 kilometers and 1560 meters of positive elevation gain.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 3. Virpazar (Montenegro) – Shkoder (Albania)
Non-existent traffic was a constant in the first part of the third stage. In fact, after leaving Virpazar I followed a road along Lake Shkoder. Once again, beauty and difficulty of the trail went hand in hand: there was no shortage of climbs, and in several sections the Garmin marked double-digit gradients.
Traffic along P16 is truly nonexistent: so nil, you could see a snake slithering blissfully in the middle of the road. There is no shortage of refreshments with a view! On this stage I found another Italian cyclo-traveler: Lorenz was traveling from Trieste to Tirana, at age 19, to celebrate his high school graduation.
After about 70 kilometers I left Montenegro. I thus reached Shkoder, Shkodra, after 74 kilometers and 1270 meters of positive elevation gain.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 4. Shkoder – Burrel (Albania)
In Shkoder I found a bike shop (HERE on Google Maps) which helped me with the bikepacking setup. To get out of Shkoder I had to, initially, the busy SH1, which I left after about ten kilometers. Small provincial roads took me to the town of Alessio and, later, to Milot. Here I again had to take a fairly busy road, E851, for only six kilometers.
I had entered the beautiful part of the stage! In fact, the last 25 kilometers of the day (full of climbs) allowed me to appreciate the beauty of Lake Shkopet. Provincial roads, with virtually no traffic, allowed me to arrive in tiny Burrel, reached after 98 kilometers and 900+.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 5. Burrel – Maqelare (Albania)
The leg from Burrel to Maqelare I will remember as the thrill ride. The provincial roads, the little traffic, the Albanian countryside were forgotten for about twenty minutes of pure panic. At one point, in fact, I thought I had lost my cell phone. I looked for it everywhere, going back to the place where I had taken the last picture, but nothing…I couldn’t find it. I was reminded of the lost backpack episode in Patagonia, recounted here in this podcast. Incredibly, after twenty minutes of terror I found it: it was not in my tshirt pocket but, rather, in my backpack pocket.
The stage, in itself, was uneventful: 65 kilometers and about 1000 meters of pleasant elevation gain in the Albanian countryside!
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 6. Maqelare (Albania) – Ohrid (North Macedonia)
I only had to pedal two kilometers to reach the border with North Macedonia. In today’s stage a lake, the lake of Debar, was once again the protagonist. Actually, to be precise, there were two lakes as protagonists: first Debar Lake and then Ohrid Lake.
This stage was also pleasant, with minimal traffic. 75 kilometers and 600+ took me all the way to Ohrid: this lakeside town deserves at least a day of sightseeing, resulting in a day of rest for the legs!
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 7. Ohrid – Mavrovo (North Macedonia)
In Ohrid I had a bike check at this bikeshop: the owner is very nice. I also met Marta, a top Italian cyclo-traveler: she has covered an impressive 17,000 kilometers in the last year. Ohrid was the southernmost point of the trip. (more on Ohrid!). On this stage, in fact, I retraced (obviously in reverse) the route of two days earlier. Once I reached Debar, however, I did not return to Albania but continued cycling toward Mavrovo Park.
My guesthouse was only a kilometer away from the Monastery of St. John the Baptist: this monastery is truly a wonder set in nature, and definitely worth a visit! 87 kilometers and 700+ was the mere mathematical tally of Stage 7.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 8. Mavrovo – Vratnica (North Macedonia)
The eighth stage started in the middle of Mavrovo Park. Traffic was virtually nonexistent until Mavrovo Lake, at an elevation of 1200 meters. The layout of this stage was a little scary for me-I thought the E65 was bad, but the traffic was definitely more sustainable than expected.
In Tetovo, I entered the TransDinarica route, which I would follow (not faithfully, some times I preferred slick roads) to the Durmitor stage. In Tetovo itself there is a beautiful mosque (Colorful Mosque) and, in addition, there is also a bikeshop. The stage, 94 kilometers long and 1100+, was not over yet. I pedaled through small country towns (amazing the amount of cafeterias found) to Vratnica, a stone’s throw from the border with Kosovo.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 9. Vratnica (North Macedonia) – Prizren (Kosovo)
The stage that took me to Kosovo was physically tough. In fact, to reach Prizren I had to face two climbs: the second one took me up to 1500 meters in altitude. I enjoyed Kosovo’s roads quite a bit on this stage: in fact, I found little traffic and a mountainous landscape, which made this stage, which was not easy, very pleasant.
In both Kosovo and Albania I found several fountains where I could fill my water bottle. These fountains are part of the local culture, as I saw several people filling water canisters. 87 kilometers and 1400+ took me to Prizren, famous for its Mosque and ancient stone bridge.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 10. Prizren – Peje (Kosovo)
The stage from Prizren to Peje was something of a historic one. The traffic on the R107 became bearable thanks to beautiful Gjakova, home to a beautiful Mosque and a very interesting bazaar. On the same stage I was also able to see the monasteries of Visoki Decani and the Pec Patriarchate. I was especially impressed by the beauty of Visoki Decani Monastery, which boasts wonderful medieval frescoes. Both Visoki Decani and the Pec Patriarchate have been attacked by religious extremists in the last twenty years-there are always international soldiers at the entrance.
In Peje I found two cyclists, with whom I had a chat after 87 kilometers and 600+.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 11. Peje (Kosovo) – Tutin (Serbia)
Stage 11 was one of the most difficult. The first goal of the day was, in fact, to reach 1,800 meters in altitude. I, therefore, pedaled for about four hours uphill. I knew I would find only one cafeteria in the first 45 kilometers: fortunately, however, I also found a fountain where I could fill my water bottle.
The scenery on this stretch between Kosovo and Montenegro was nothing short of sublime: it felt like pedaling in the middle of the Alps! Once I finished the descent that brought me to Rozaje, I encountered an unpleasant road, the E65. The traffic, in itself, is sustainable, but there are some unlit tunnels that are awe-inspiring. By now, however, I was in Serbia: I reached Tutin after 80 kilometers and 1,500 meters of elevation gain. In Tutin I found no alcohol and, incredible to say, not even tea!
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 12. Tutin – Sjenica (Serbia)
The stage from Tutin to Sjenica allowed me to appreciate the Serbian countryside. In these 60 kilometers (with 950+) I passed through tiny villages-I found only a small supermarket. This, in fact, was the only stage where I found neither a bar nor a restaurant along the way.
On the other hand, I really enjoyed the route, with virtually no traffic. The most difficult part of the stage was at the beginning, when I encountered gradients well into double digits…in dirt! In Sjenica I found an excellent bikeshop, exactly HERE.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 13. Sjenica (Serbia) – Pljevljia (Montenegro).
The stage from Sjenica, Serbia, to Pljevlja, Montenegro, promised to be difficult, both altimetrically and planimetrically speaking. Road 29 to Novi Varos, in fact, was very nice: in 35 kilometers, however, I kept going up and down…definitely tiring! At Novi Varos, both a wonderful downhill false-flat section and the E763, a fairly busy road, awaited me, which kept me company all the way to Prijepolie. Here I left the E763: a climb awaited me, however, which took me to 1300 meters above sea level.
This climb, however, boasts magnificent views of the Serbian countryside. At the summit I reached the Serbian-Montenegrin border: a descent with excellent views took me to Pljevlja. This was a big stage: 97 kilometers and 1550+.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 14. Pljevljia – Zabljak (Montenegro)
The 60 kilometers from Pljevlja to Zabljak were not easy: the positive elevation gain was an impressive 1250+. On this stage I faced as many as two climbs. At the end of the first one I found one of the few Italians I met during the trip: Stefano, a motorcyclist from Emilia. Between the two climbs I was able to admire the wonderful Tara canyon: from the bridge that connects the two parts of the canyon it is possible to appreciate beautiful views and see tourists grappling with ziplines and rafting.
Once I reached Zabljak I pedaled an additional two kilometers to admire the beautiful Black Lake in the middle of Durmitor Park. I also did a final check on the bike HERE., especially the bikepacking setup.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 15. Zabljak (Montenegro) – Brod (Bosnia)
Stage 15 is perhaps the most beautiful of the Balkan Bike Tour. From Zabljak I started pedaling uphill to the 1907-meter Sedia Pass, the Cima Coppi of the entire Balkan Bike Tour. The views along the ascent were wonderful-the nonexistent traffic and narrow mountain roads made for a heavenly picture. Durmitor Park is truly sensational: you have to pay 5 euros for admission, even the bikes! After about 35 kilometers I found a small cafe in the middle of nowhere: I enjoyed an excellent Turkish coffee. Soon after there is a tiny town where you can munch on something.
The descent led me to Piva Lake, which I followed for 15 kilometers. This section is sensational: the views of the lake are impressive! I definitely recommend lights, as there are about fifty tunnels, all unlit and some quite long. At the 70th kilometer I entered Bosnia, or rather Republika Srpska. I thus reached Brod, sleeping a stone’s throw away from the beautiful Drina River. 93 kilometers and 1150+ unforgettable!
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 16. Brod – Gacko (Bosnia)
The first kilometers of this stage were not splendid. I pedaled along the M20, which in this section is quite narrow and … uphill! Running into a truck in this part is not pleasant, also because there is often a lack of space to overtake safely. At Tjentiste the situation definitely improves and I was finally able to calmly appreciate the beauty of Sutjeska Park. A second climb of the day brought me to the second critical moment of the day: a 2.2-kilometer tunnel that is dimly lit in places. Once again, lights are necessary!
Before reaching Gacko I had a nice refreshing swim at Lake Klinje: this place is very popular with the locals! I arrived in Gacko after 56 kilometers and 1100 meters of elevation gain.
Cycling in the Balkans, stage 17. Gacko (Bosnia) – Dubrovnik (Croatia)
The last leg of the Balkan Bike Tour continued on the M20 road. There was almost no traffic: just as well, as it seems to me that motorists around here drive quite badly. The ride went quickly: I was able to appreciate Lake Bilecko, the small town Trebinje with its beautiful medieval bridge, and, finally, the Adriatic Sea! In the last six kilometers, in particular, I admired splendid views of Dubrovnik. The tour, with a final stage of 108 kilometers and 750+, was over: I said goodbye to my wonderful bike and the guys from Bike Croatia, and it was time to go again!
IN ADDITION TO THE BALKANS BY BIKE YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN…
The climbs between Italy and France!
Canarias coast to coast by bike!
The information to go from Rome to Milan by bike!
USEFUL INFORMATION ABOUT THE BALKANS BY BIKE
- I traveled in bikepacking mode: I had with me a bag attached to the saddle, a small bag in front and a backpack always on my shoulder.
- I did not use a tent. I always relied on guesthouses. Standouts were Miona in Virpazar, Villa Bruci in Burrel, Villa Kale in Ohrid, the House of the Miyaks in Mavrovo, Kitka in Vratnica, Villa Petunia in Sjenica, Vila Vjera in Zabljak, and Motel Bavaria in Brod. I did not make reservations in advance: however, in some places there is little choice.
- On almost all stages I found places to eat and drink during the itinerary. The biggest problems I found from Tutin to Sjenica and in the Durmitor Park stage: in these two stages there is nothing for several kilometers.
- In the Balkans you can eat divinely, especially if you eat meat. Cevapcici (local sausages), burek (puff pastry stuffed with meat) and lamb are found everywhere. I ate divinely in Tasa Pljevlja, Vkusno in Ohrid, Zlatno Ripce in Lukovo in the two stops in Ohrid. On several occasions I ate directly in the restaurant located inside the hotel. For about 10 euros you can eat, generally speaking.
- Very few craft beers can be found. I found the best beers at Przun in Kotor and the Irish Pub in Ohrid. Dubrovnik Beer Company at the end of the trip was my just reward.
- Euro is current and valid currency in Croatia, Montenegro, Kosovo. In North Macedonia, Albania and Bosnia the Euro is accepted, but it is better to go and change some money in local currency. In Serbia, however, I always paid in Serbian Dinars. Cards are not accepted everywhere.
- I crossed ten borders. I never had any problems: in some cases I passed, without much fuss, the queue of cars. The border between Montenegro and Albania was particular: it is the only one ‘in common’, the others are all double. The ID card is valid, but I preferred to always use my passport.
- I did not perceive any dangers. Some roads, especially on the stage from Serbia to Montenegro and at the entrance to Bosnia, are not the best. The local people were always extremely friendly! I found the only stretch of dirt road at the exit of Tutin, Serbia.
- The most beautiful stages were the second, third and fifteenth. The first stage, along the Bay of Kotor, is also magnificent.
- The cultural mix of the population often left me surprised. One moves easily from mosques to Orthodox churches, from hookah cafes to beer gardens, from burqas to Western clothes. I really enjoyed the stretch from Tetovo to Kosovo: I cycled through small towns, where you can find many cafes (as they are called locally) in very authentic areas.
- TransDinarica is a sensational project. I have been cycling in the TransDinarica territories from Tetovo to Durmitor Park, although I have often chosen to ride on slick roads. The idea of creating a cycling route in fabulous landscapes, using back roads, is truly appreciable.
- You can also do the route in reverse. I preferred, however, to start in Kotor because I wanted to get to know this Montenegrin town, which I actually liked very much.
- The elevation gain is really challenging. Almost every stage has a positive elevation gain of more than 1,000 meters-it is not a ride for everyone.
- This bike tour of the Balkans can be done only in the summer season, as it touches altitudes close to 2,000 meters: moreover, it may snow in this area even at low altitudes.
- How much do I recommend this tour? A lot, but you need a good leg!
